Oak barrels how crucial are they ?

Traditionally, fortified wines are aged in oak barrels, which are generally seasoned.
The influence of the barrel can be seen as: the origin of the wood and the techniques used for fabrication of the barrel, such as duration and method of drying the wood after cutting, burning intensity, during the assembly and cleaning the barrel before use. The size of the barrel also affects the aging, according to the permeability and more contact with the wood due to the smaller size.

 Aging of old barrel aged Ports in oak barrels, requires a very slow and long process.
The oxygen, which penetrates through the pores of the wood, participates in oxidation reactions, interfering with the aroma and taste of the Port.

The oxidation percentage may vary from 2 % (if the Port is aged at the Cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia) to 6 % per year (if the Port is aged at the Douro Valley, by the smaller and independent producers), depending on the conditions of temperature and humidity of the local.
The alcohol and water do not evaporate at the same rate due to the different degree of volatility. In a humid environment, the alcohol evaporates more easily. In dry enviroments, water evaporates in a higher quantity. A place of more humid aging usually is favorable for obtaining refined Ports.

The strong aroma of alcohol will change to a more subtle aromas with notes of wood, especially vanilla and finally getting a nice complexity.

The quality of the oak it´s also very important – french oak is considered the best one, but the Port barrels can still be made of portuguese  american and hungarian oak or chestnut, but for our Port maturation we only use seasoned french oak, and recently hungarian.

 To make  a first quality barrel you need to wait one century for the tree to grow and 3 years more to smoke and dried it, it´s the reason that normally the flavor of caramel is easy to pick in a tawny ( small amounts of sugar in the oaks cells ), normally when we are thinking about buying a 30y old tawny, a Over 40y old tawny or even a old Colheita ( single year tawny ) and we consider the price expensive, it´s always very important, to keep in mind some of the highest quality factors...
The emblematic coopers room at C. da Silva´s cellar.
Nowadays a slice of C. da Silva´s history...where we keep the old staves, the cooper´s tools, the fire place used to smoke and reduce the thickness of the french oak casks...


C. da Silva´s coopers room

From the thickness of the wood to the braces that mould the staves, one of the secrets of our wines lays in the barrels that store the Port wine, handcrafted by wise cooper masters.


Toasting the french oak casks

The fortification planning

Due to the massive success of Port wine in the first half of the 18th century, that led lots of grape growers out of the Douro region, to use their grapes for Port Wine production changing its quality and because of  the difficulty in territorial planning, in 1756 the Prime Minister “Marques de Pombal” restricted the Douro Valley region with 335 milestones, distributed along 250.000 hec.

Making it the oldest defined and protected wine region in the world. Nowadays in the Douro Valley we have 45700 hect cultivated, from wich 33000 hect are suitable for Port Wine and 39100 grape growers.

In 1932 the Casa do Douro, an Association of vintners, they had the mission of registering all the planted plots in the Douro.
In 1948, a very important person, an Agronomist, mr. Moreira da Fonseca, used the info collected during decades as well as the data of the quantity and quality of the different sub regions.
He has created a classification method, based in three major factors: soil; weather conditions and type of plantation.

Each vine/hectare gets points based in:

Soil: schistous soil; quantity of shale; slope gradient; yield;
Weather conditions: exposure; altitude; shelter; location; pre-marked localities;
Type of plantation:  grape varietals; type of planting; age of the vines;

  • A –  over 1200 points
  • B –  from 1001 to 1200
  • C –  from 801 to 1000
  • D –  from 601 to 800
  • E –  from 401 to 600
  • F –  from 201 to 400
  • G – from 1 to 200
  • H – from  -200 to 0
  • I – from  -400 to -201
The Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro, has the annual task of presenting the maximum of Port Wine to produce, according to the variation of the market, sales and Wine reserves, for instance in 2011 was 85000 barrels (85000 x 550 liters) the same as 46.750.000 liters.

The quantity of must for fortification per hectare, in 2010:

  • A – 2.043 liters
  • B – 2.010 liters
  • C – 1.859 liters
  • D – 1.818 liters
  • E – 1.573 liters
  • F – 684 liters
  • G – 0
  • H – 0
  • I  – 0
The Moreira da Fonseca method is a very important contribute, once that each Port and Douro Wine producer knows how many liters may produce per hectare, according to the Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro.

Port wine... to the cask or to the bottle ?

There are two different families thanks to the hand of the winemaker, the Port wines that age in the cask and the ones that age in the bottle.

Very few common characteristics between these two categories, although they are both Ports, they may present superior quality but distinct styles.

This organization of Port wine is the result of the historical evolution of Port wine. It was not from the very beginning (XVIII century) that has been made this option of the different types that we now nowadays.

Curiosly, in the beginning of the Port wine history til the end of the XIX century, the importance of old Port wine aged in barrel was really low, the market was focused on young Ports, the Vintage Port, known in that time as "Novelty".

DALVA Vintage 2011
The old Ports were not appelatives for the bulk business and massive exportation, of course that the baseline of quality, the younger Ports, are the ones that offer a higger income for the Houses, in the other side of the scale we have the Ports that ensure the reputation and prestige, the Vintage and the old Tawnies and Colheitas with over 20 years old.

For instance the Tawny 10 years old, if you carefully check the price per bottle that most of the Port Houses sell it, we realise that the investiment on casks, the room space, the evaporation lost during that time and the costs with coopers are farway from reaching a considerable income.

Nowadays, a good still wine can easily reach a price of a Tawny 10 years old, however, the Aged Tawnies categorie is a "must have"... a mandatory type.

It is common to say that each Company has its own flagship, some opted for Ruby Reserve, others LBV combining the good relationship quality/price.

The old Tawnies will always have their niche of the market, especially the 20, 30 and over 40 years old, produced/bottled in smaller quantities.

In average, for a 30 years old Tawny, the anual bottling is about one to two casks of 550 liters.
This small quantity (when comparing with the White/Ruby/Tawny) ensures a great quality and reliability to the consumer.

Despite the price payed, it is clearly justified by the quality and enjoyment that this Ports must offer.

The unique old White Colheitas from DALVA
The last but not the least, the Colheita, a Single Harvest Tawny that is currently the other king of Port wines, representing 0,5% of the market, less than the Vintage (about 2%) it has gain a status that nowadays, some Houses are more focused on using it on Colheita than keeping it only for
the blend of 30 or over 40 years old Tawnies.

The backstage of a full Vintage Declaration

The backstage of classical or non classical "Vintage Port declaration":
 
The IVDP - Port Wine Institute controls and approves all the types of Port Wine released to the market. Each time that our company wants to bottle a different blend of any type of Port, samples need to be submited to both IVDP´s chemical analysis and blind tastings.
If all is according to what was planned, then we receive an approbation to bottle (ex. 4000 liters of Rosé Port).
Although for Vintage Port, the IVDP administers supplementary actions, being the Vintage the "king" (the highest quality) of Port wine.

The period that goes from January till June of the second year after the harvest, is when all the Houses / Port Companies should be ready to send the samples of their Vintage Ports.
By getting all the samples it will occurs then a blind tasting and several chemical analysis at the IVDP.
If the tasting profile matches the high standards for Vintage Port and if all is approved on the laboratory, IVDP will approve the batch for bottling. But the process will continue in a near future, in this particular case, immediately before the bottling.

The information of when the bottling takes place must be given to the IVDP, so that the IVDP inspectors can be at the bottling area or warehouse to count the number of bottled bottles and ensure that the quality is the same that has been tasted a few months ago at the IVDP facilities, for that they will collect five samples / bottles that will pass through the same IVDP´s certification process.

Then there is also a interesting subject that is the classic and non classic Vintage Port declarations, how is it defined ?

Well, apart from the exceptional weather conditions that will lead to great berries and if it was declared a "Vintage Confraria" (Brotherhood Vintage), meaning that over than ten Port wine Companies have declared Vintage, also the announcement of a massive declaration by the media ( the exemple of the latest Vintage 2011, with 55 Vintages approved)...these are normally the key elements that are being used to define a classic or non classic Vintage Port declaration.

Port wine Brotherdood - it is a independent Brotherhood created in November of 1982 with its headquarters at "Palácio da Bolsa" side by side with the IVDP´s building, it is a independent organization that gathers all the Port wine Companies with a warehouse or depot at Vila Nova de Gaia.

The importance of 2011 Vintage Port

2011 Vintage Port had a incredible and wide declaration from the major Port wine brands and smaller and independent producers in the Douro valley.

The older and traditional brands have declared a full House Vintage Port, meaning that when the internationally recognized companies do it, it is obviously a classic Vintage and the market will certainly claim for these Vintages.

Most of the oenologists are amazed with the quality of this particular year, the 2011 Vintage Port shows its own identity.
In the last decade we (Port wine trade) had in general three classic Vintage declarations: 2000; 2003 and 2007.

In the field there were perfect climate conditions during the year which permitted to grow outstanding grapes; there were perfect climate conditions during the year which permitted to grow outstanding grapes; enough rainfall and equivalente hours of sun exposition to get the perfect maturation.
At our Winery, all the vinification process has been closely supervised.

2011 was followed by a year (2010) of poor and lower quality, the 2011 is the first classic Vintage of this current decade, it reminds the release of the emblematic Vintage 2000.


A Vintage declaration creates a great impact in the media, when it is released the press will write about Port, although the Vintage Port represents only 0.5% of the annual production it is crucial to increase the sales and for the image of Port in general (White; Ruby and Tawny categories).

Full of color and intense aromas, our DALVA Vintage 2011, shows an amazing elegance and freshness on both nose and palate, complexity of the fruit, raspberry conserve, floral and slightly peppered with chewy tannins.



C. da Silva and Gran Cruz Winemaker José Sousa Soares commented:

"All harvests have their particular characteristics, but what excited us in 2011 was the maturation of the red grapes, which gave colour and tannin levels higher than I had ever seen in my 24 years of making Port in the Douro. It was an early harvest: levels of phenolic compounds in the vineyards at river level developed at least two weeks ahead of normal, with a similarly early development of sugars and aroma compounds. The wines were thus rich in color and tannin, with the best showing enormous persistence and aromas of well-matured fruit. After two years of ageing and development of our Vintage Port 2011, it has a tremendous aromatic potential, with floral notes and forest fruits dominating; its exceptional body and supple tannin structure give a long and exuberant palate.”

Jorge Dias, General Manager of C. da Silva and Gran Cruz added:

“We are very excited about the quality and potential of 2011 Vintage. This is one of those years that justify saying that Vintage Port is a gift of the Gods, reflecting the essence of the terroir of the Douro region, and it is a long time since we have seen such a classic Vintage. In the troubled times in which we live, we believe this represents great value for money.”



 
 

C. da Silva declares Vintage 2011

C. DA SILVA DECLARES 2011 VINTAGE PORT

 
 
C. da Silva (Vinhos) S.A., is delighted to announce the declaration of its 2011 Vintage Ports. After nearly two years of carefully nurturing the best lotes from this outstanding viticultural year we have produced a blend which we believe will stand comparison with the best Vintage declarations of the last 20 years. The blend contains a high proportion of the classic variety Touriga Nacional, complemented with field-blended fruit from old vineyards which adds complexity and personality. Sourced principally from vineyards on the south bank of the River Douro above Pinhão, the wine demonstrates the extraordinary structure which characterizes the best from this year.

 
Winemaker, José Sousa Soares, commented:
 
“All harvests have their particular characteristics, but what excited us in 2011 was the maturation of the red grapes, which gave colour and tannin levels higher than I had ever seen in my 24 years of making Port in the Douro. It was an early harvest: levels of phenolic compounds in the vineyards at river level developed at least two weeks ahead of normal, with a similarly early development of sugars and aroma compounds. The wines were thus rich in color and tannin, with the best showing enormous persistence and aromas of well-matured fruit. After two years of ageing and development of our Vintage Port 2011, it has a tremendous aromatic potential, with floral notes and forest fruits dominating; its exceptional body and supple tannin structure give a long and exuberant palate.”
 
 
Jorge Dias, General Manager of C. da Silva (Vinhos) SA, added:
 
“We are very excited about the quality and potential of 2011 Vintage. This is one of those years that justify saying that Vintage Port is a gift of the Gods, reflecting the essence of the terroir of the Douro region, and it is a long time since we have seen such a classic Vintage. In the troubled times in which we live, we believe this represents great value for money.”
 
The 2011 Vintage will be available from July 2013, under the brands DALVA and PRESIDENTIAL, in 75 cl bottles and large formats such as magnums, double magnums and imperials.

The last bottles of Golden White 1952

Hello Port Lovers,

As you all know the amazing Golden White 1952 / Dalva Colheita is arriving to the end (unfortunately) less than 120 liters. A myth ! The first White Port Colheita that really changed the way that people used to look to White Port.




Golden White 1952 oak cask...the last of a classic !

White Port was considered the baseline of Port wines range, used for a cocktail or mixed with tonic water, as Port tonic, in a tumbler with a lemon slice and a mint leaf...refreshing but not respected.


DALVA GOLDEN WHITE 1952

The DALVA Golden White 1952 is undoubtedly the White Ports flagship, turning the page of a old book in people´s mind.
Decades of evaporation have concentrated this extraordinary wine almost to an essence.

UNIC and RARE in this category.
Made exclusively with white grapes.
Nowadays C. da Silva Cellar only makes the Dalva Golden White 1952 bottling by request, allowing the continuity ageing process of the Golden White in the unique oak cask.
It presents us with a outstanding " bouquet", dry fruit shell, nougat, honey, caramel, vanilla, toffee, smoke, tobacco and iodine... Toasted with an amazing silky texture...

“ Fantastically balanced with flavours of nuts, orange peel, sweet spice and caramel. It's complex, exciting, delicious and really intense. Perfect with Dundee Cake.”

Quoted from the International Wine Challenge judges.
 

This is probably the last chance to get this legendary Port !

(For further informations: wineshop@cdasilva.pt or visit us at http://www.cdasilva.pt/ )