Jorge Dias, Managing Director of Gran Cruz group |
Jorge Dias, Managing Director of Gran Cruz group |
Usually the young Port wines are kept in Quinta dos Avidagos, our vinification center (located in Alvações do Corgo, close to Régua - the Douro valley) for their first winter before being brought down the Douro river, where the lower temperatures and higher humidity is better for the Port´s maturation.
In our Cellars with 10,000 square meters, the Port matures in very old seasoned oak casks called pipas (pipes).
During this amazing aging process it will be tasted regularly by our winemakers or oenologues, to assess its quality.
Our Ports will gradually mellow in an oxidative process "angels share", with this process (Tawny Port) we are losing about 2% to 3% of Port annualy, achieving a nutty and amber hue and an incredible taste based in dry fruits shell, toffee, cigar box, coffee, stewed figs, bitter chocolate hints... softness and an elegant delayed after taste.
Since 1862 that C. da Silva, a traditional Port wine House, has been driven by the ambition of presenting the higher quality, namely for the "Colheita" and Aged Tawnies.
Devotion and passion a full time commitment |
Traditionally, fortified wines are aged in oak barrels, which are generally seasoned.
The influence of the barrel can be seen as: the origin of the wood and the techniques used for fabrication of the barrel, such as duration and method of drying the wood after cutting, burning intensity, during the assembly and cleaning the barrel before use. The size of the barrel also affects the aging, according to the permeability and more contact with the wood due to the smaller size.
Aging of old barrel aged Ports in oak barrels, requires a very slow and long process.
The oxygen, which penetrates through the pores of the wood, participates in oxidation reactions, interfering with the aroma and taste of the Port.
The oxidation percentage may vary from 2 % (if the Port is aged at the Cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia) to 6 % per year (if the Port is aged at the Douro Valley, by the smaller and independent producers), depending on the conditions of temperature and humidity of the local.
The alcohol and water do not evaporate at the same rate due to the different degree of volatility. In a humid environment, the alcohol evaporates more easily. In dry enviroments, water evaporates in a higher quantity. A place of more humid aging usually is favorable for obtaining refined Ports.
The strong aroma of alcohol will change to a more subtle aromas with notes of wood, especially vanilla and finally getting a nice complexity.
The quality of the oak it´s also very important – french oak is considered the best one, but the Port barrels can still be made of portuguese american and hungarian oak or chestnut, but for our Port maturation we only use seasoned french oak, and recently hungarian.
To make a first quality barrel you need to wait one century for the tree to grow and 3 years more to smoke and dried it, it´s the reason that normally the flavor of caramel is easy to pick in a tawny ( small amounts of sugar in the oaks cells ), normally when we are thinking about buying a 30y old tawny, a Over 40y old tawny or even a old Colheita ( single year tawny ) and we consider the price expensive, it´s always very important, to keep in mind some of the highest quality factors...The emblematic coopers room at C. da Silva´s cellar.
Nowadays a slice of C. da Silva´s history...where we keep the old staves, the cooper´s tools, the fire place used to smoke and reduce the thickness of the french oak casks...
C. da Silva´s coopers room |
Toasting the french oak casks |
Due to the massive success of Port wine in the first half of the 18th century, that led lots of grape growers out of the Douro region, to use their grapes for Port Wine production changing its quality and because of the difficulty in territorial planning, in 1756 the Prime Minister “Marques de Pombal” restricted the Douro Valley region with 335 milestones, distributed along 250.000 hec.
Making it the oldest defined and protected wine region in the world. Nowadays in the Douro Valley we have 45700 hect cultivated, from wich 33000 hect are suitable for Port Wine and 39100 grape growers.
In 1932 the Casa do Douro, an Association of vintners, they had the mission of registering all the planted plots in the Douro.
In 1948, a very important person, an Agronomist, mr. Moreira da Fonseca, used the info collected during decades as well as the data of the quantity and quality of the different sub regions.
He has created a classification method, based in three major factors: soil; weather conditions and type of plantation.
There are two different families thanks to the hand of the winemaker, the Port wines that age in the cask and the ones that age in the bottle.
Very few common characteristics between these two categories, although they are both Ports, they may present superior quality but distinct styles.
This organization of Port wine is the result of the historical evolution of Port wine. It was not from the very beginning (XVIII century) that has been made this option of the different types that we now nowadays.
Curiosly, in the beginning of the Port wine history til the end of the XIX century, the importance of old Port wine aged in barrel was really low, the market was focused on young Ports, the Vintage Port, known in that time as "Novelty".
DALVA Vintage 2011 |
The unique old White Colheitas from DALVA |
The backstage of classical or non classical "Vintage Port declaration":
The IVDP - Port Wine Institute controls and approves all the types of Port Wine released to the market. Each time that our company wants to bottle a different blend of any type of Port, samples need to be submited to both IVDP´s chemical analysis and blind tastings.
If all is according to what was planned, then we receive an approbation to bottle (ex. 4000 liters of Rosé Port).
Although for Vintage Port, the IVDP administers supplementary actions, being the Vintage the "king" (the highest quality) of Port wine.
The period that goes from January till June of the second year after the harvest, is when all the Houses / Port Companies should be ready to send the samples of their Vintage Ports.
By getting all the samples it will occurs then a blind tasting and several chemical analysis at the IVDP.
If the tasting profile matches the high standards for Vintage Port and if all is approved on the laboratory, IVDP will approve the batch for bottling. But the process will continue in a near future, in this particular case, immediately before the bottling.
The information of when the bottling takes place must be given to the IVDP, so that the IVDP inspectors can be at the bottling area or warehouse to count the number of bottled bottles and ensure that the quality is the same that has been tasted a few months ago at the IVDP facilities, for that they will collect five samples / bottles that will pass through the same IVDP´s certification process.
Then there is also a interesting subject that is the classic and non classic Vintage Port declarations, how is it defined ?
Well, apart from the exceptional weather conditions that will lead to great berries and if it was declared a "Vintage Confraria" (Brotherhood Vintage), meaning that over than ten Port wine Companies have declared Vintage, also the announcement of a massive declaration by the media ( the exemple of the latest Vintage 2011, with 55 Vintages approved)...these are normally the key elements that are being used to define a classic or non classic Vintage Port declaration.
Port wine Brotherdood - it is a independent Brotherhood created in November of 1982 with its headquarters at "Palácio da Bolsa" side by side with the IVDP´s building, it is a independent organization that gathers all the Port wine Companies with a warehouse or depot at Vila Nova de Gaia.
2011 Vintage Port had a incredible and wide declaration from the major Port wine brands and smaller and independent producers in the Douro valley.
The older and traditional brands have declared a full House Vintage Port, meaning that when the internationally recognized companies do it, it is obviously a classic Vintage and the market will certainly claim for these Vintages.
Most of the oenologists are amazed with the quality of this particular year, the 2011 Vintage Port shows its own identity.
In the last decade we (Port wine trade) had in general three classic Vintage declarations: 2000; 2003 and 2007.
In the field there were perfect climate conditions during the year which permitted to grow outstanding grapes; there were perfect climate conditions during the year which permitted to grow outstanding grapes; enough rainfall and equivalente hours of sun exposition to get the perfect maturation.
At our Winery, all the vinification process has been closely supervised.
2011 was followed by a year (2010) of poor and lower quality, the 2011 is the first classic Vintage of this current decade, it reminds the release of the emblematic Vintage 2000.
A Vintage declaration creates a great impact in the media, when it is released the press will write about Port, although the Vintage Port represents only 0.5% of the annual production it is crucial to increase the sales and for the image of Port in general (White; Ruby and Tawny categories).
Full of color and intense aromas, our DALVA Vintage 2011, shows an amazing elegance and freshness on both nose and palate, complexity of the fruit, raspberry conserve, floral and slightly peppered with chewy tannins.
C. DA SILVA DECLARES 2011 VINTAGE PORT
Hello Port Lovers,
As you all know the amazing Golden White 1952 / Dalva Colheita is arriving to the end (unfortunately) less than 120 liters. A myth ! The first White Port Colheita that really changed the way that people used to look to White Port.
Golden White 1952 oak cask...the last of a classic ! |
DALVA GOLDEN WHITE 1952 |
Based in Vila Nova de Gaia, since 1926, our cellars were the key that opened the door to export.
Here we held more than thirty regional representations that ensured the distribution of a wide variety of alcoholic beverages, such as Port Wines, Aged Brandy, sparkling wines, red table wines and Rosé.
2900 seasoned oak casks ageing a unique Port wine |
A key element, very important in the wine making process, is the yeast. And why is it so important, although measuring 0.003 mm,? Because this live micro-organism transforms the fructose in the grape ethanol, the alcohol present in the wine.
Port wine was, and is, a key product for the National economy and even more a symbolic asset that represents Port througout the world.
The designation Port wine appeared during the second half of the 17th century due to an incredible expansion of Douro viticulture and a rapid growth in wine exports.
It all began in 1680, on that time there were political diferences between the french prime minister, Colbert and King Charles II from UK.
These political diferences led both countries to the Augsburg battle in 1688, forcing the british royalty to send merchants seeking for alternative wine sources, Italy, Spain but most of all the North of Portugal.
As the brithish people´s taste started to become more sofisticated, the merchants went into the core of the Douro valley where the quality was amazing.
In 1703 the Methuen treaty, for the wine exports Portugal was paying 2/3 of the exportation fees to U.K. while on the other hand Portugal was buying the textiles from the british.
Between 1710 and 1740, the Port era, the ships departed from Porto, that was a very important seaport located in the mouth of the Douro river heading towards England and abroad.
In England there were merchants with wagons pulled by horses waiting to load the oak casks, afterwards they would go to the castles and in the private cellars or warehouses the merchants staff would made the bottling.
Port was not a nobility drink, people drank Port in the taverns with a mug directly from the casks.
Elderberry and sugar were added to wine and everyone wanted to become a grape grower, so the quality decreased.
In order to stop with a lack of both quality and territorial coordination, in 1756 the portuguese prime minister, the Marquis de Pombal, ordered the distribution of 335 milestones along 250.000 hects.
Nowadays there are 45700hects cultivated and 39100 grape growers, Port is strictly controlled by the Port wine Institute inspectors and thousands of chemical analysis annualy made, before each Port producer gets the bottling approval.
There is a wide range of grape varietals in the Demarcated Douro region, in the north of Portugal.
These grape varietals have been adapted to different climate conditions, and micro-climates... the terroir ability to offer optimal conditions to wines.
The native varietals have been grafted with different types of rootstocks since that philoxera (pest that destroyed most of the vineyards all over Europe) reached to Portugal in 1865.
This process has been done according to their compatibility with different types of roots and the characteristics of the soil in which the vines were planted.
The cultivation of the different types of vines is regulated by a Decret-Law, that lists all the authorized varietals, the recommended ones and percentages.
Nowadays, winemakers and oenologues have opted for five red grapes varietals ( Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca...)
Touriga Nacional |
Tinta Roriz |
Touriga Francesa |
Tinta Barroca |
Tinto cão |
The reason of using the expression "Distinctive Port" in all our labels is that since the very beginning this Company tried to depart from the others.
Aged in very old french oak barrels, showing very intense and persistent aromas and flavors, on the mouth, elegant and unctuous... a unique style and market targeting:
The single Dry White Ports range in the Port wine trade:
3 YO Dry White |
7 YO Dry White Reserve |
10 YO Dry White |
15 YO Dry White |
20 YO Dry White |
The Port / Port wine cellars are definitely the most precious gem(s) that Gaia offers to the world.
The so famous Port wine cellars are located in the riverside area of Vila Nova de Gaia, in the parish of Santa Marinha.
The Port cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia are not merely an extension of the Douro.
The secret of aging the precious nectar in barrels, in darkness and humidity of the cellars covered with dust, a unique and genuine atmosphere that only age can confer.
C. da Silva´s cellar |
C. da Silva´s Port & Wine shop |
The Moscatel wines, such like Port is a fortified wine.
Altough it is a great wine by itself, Moscatel is mainly a dessert wine produced in the Douro valley and in the Setúbal region.
Like Port there are different aged Moscatel, with different levels of complexity. "Moscatel" is the name that has been given to a group of grapes with high sugar content, it is common that the residual sugar per liter is about 140grms/liter.
DALVA Moscatel (blending Moscatel with an average of five years old) |
The Wines and fortified Wines magazine "Decanter" in England, launched the latest edition, January 2013.
One of the most relevant articles was written by Richard Mayson, English writer of wines, highly recognized internationally, specialising in wines from Spain and Portugal, Port Wine, Madeira and Sherry.
For Richard Mayson, the choice is clear with regard to Aged Tawnies, being his preferred the Tawny 20 Years Old.
The assessment of 20 Years Old Tawny was extensive, eighteen 20 Years Old Tawny made part of the tasting, leaving our DALVA 20 Years Old with the outstanding and better evaluation, rated with 19.5 points.